By
far the most culturally exciting event for me took place on Sunday afternoon. I
had an “audience” with the local King at his palace in Nungua, the city where
Shirley lives. Shirley, her mother, an aunt, and her cousin Esther picked me up
at the hotel. We drove to Nungua (less than 2km), first stopping down the
street from the palace so I could get “dressed” appropriately. The “outfit” is
a large rectangle of cloth, perhaps 4-5’ by 10’. I was wrapped so that my right
shoulder was exposed (although I had a shirt on under it), and the ends were
draped over my right shoulder. This way it was essentially floor length. We got
back in the car, found a place to park right across the street from the palace
and waited for the invitation to enter.
The
“palace” is a one-story compound. Inside, past some elaborate gates with metal
figures on the outside, is a small courtyard and a couple of structures. The
one on the left is the tribal council hall where we were meeting. Inside is a
single large room about 3 times as long as wide. One of the narrow ends of the
hall is dominated by a large throne behind a long table (it was covered by a
cloth when I first entered to keep it from getting dusty between uses). They
both sit on a raised platform. In front of the platform is another long table
with 5-6 chairs for the elders. Off to the right side as you faced the throne
were chairs which were occupied by the high priests (all in white garments).
The rest of the room is dominated by a long U-shaped table with chairs (nice
padded ones with the names of the individuals on them) around it. The various
village representatives (princes) sat at them. Along the wall behind those
chairs was another row of chairs which were occupied by the queen mothers and
the princesses. I should also mention that in the courtyard were three
musicians playing on traditional African drums playing to announce our entry
and the beginning of the ceremony.
Except
for the unoccupied throne, most of the chairs were already occupied when I
entered. They had reserved four chairs right inside the door at the U-shaped
table for myself, Shirley, her mother, and her aunt. A few minutes later, the
king entered and assumed his place on the throne. Also with him was the “linguist.”
The king does not speak directly to the people during the ceremony, nor do you
speak directly to him. All communication is through his linguist. The drums
outside then stopped and the main ceremony began.
It
was all conducted in Ga, the local tribal language, except for a few occasions
when one of the elders spoke in English for my benefit. So I just nodded my
head at what I thought were the appropriate times. I heard my name mentioned a
few times (as Mr. Alan), and also the fact that Shirley had come to live with
us 12 years ago. One of the elders was the chief speaker. When he, or anyone
else, rose to speak, the speaker had to pull down the robe from his right
shoulder as well so that both shoulders were uncovered in the presence of the
king. However, women or the priests (who had a different type of garb) did not
do so, nor would their outfits be amenable to it.
After
some long speaking, primarily by the elder in the middle of the row of elders,
but supplemented by Shirley’s father (who is also one of the elders), or the
linguist (on behalf of the king), I was informed that I needed to step
outside (along with the women, the priests, and the linguist) for a “libation.”
Seeing one of the priests carrying two bottles of Schnapps, I wondered what I
was getting into (I don’t drink alcohol). But my fears were unfounded as the chief
priest was alternately pouring from the two bottles onto the ground – the libations
were an offering to the gods. As he said something and poured a little, the
women would all repeat his words or say something else. Finally he emptied the
remains of both bottles to an applause and we returned inside.
There
was some additional speaking. I was also asked to say a few words (they told me
as we were coming back inside that I would be asked so I had a minute to decide
what to say). I rose, dropped the robe from my left shoulder and said that I
was happy to have been a host father for Shirley and that I felt greatly
honored to participate in this ceremony. One of the other men at the table then
rose and translated what I had said into Ga so that everyone knew what I had
said.
I
should also mention that at various times during the ceremony the princesses
would all break into some sort of song or chant. I was told that according to
their tradition that god speaks to his people through these women, so when they
start saying/singing something, everyone stops to listen to what they are
saying as that is a message to them from god.
The
next part of the ceremony was when the priests all gathered in front of me to
place a wreath of some special plant around my neck. I rose and to some sort of
special words, the priest (not the oldest one who had led in the libations, but
a younger one who was the tallest in the group and could more easily place it
around my neck) put the wreath over my head three times – the first two times
then removing it and leaving it there on the third time. We then sat down again.
The head elder explained a few things to me in English. We all rose as the king
exited the room, we all sat down back again for a few minutes while they distributed
bottles of soda to those who desired.
After
exiting the tribal council room myself, I was invited into one of the other
buildings where the King and Shirley’s father were sitting (it was another large
room with big stuffed chairs around the outside and pictures of the current and
former kings on the walls). I was then able to speak to the king (in English)
personally. A few of the things he said to me stood out.
First,
he explained that as Shirley’s father was one of the tribal elders, that he was
then an “uncle” to Shirley and that made her a “princess” as well, with full
rite of ascension to the throne (but of course with many people in front of
her). Secondly, he informed me that if I ever came back again that there would
be another ceremony and they would give me an official title. Finally, I was
invited to travel with the king and his elders to another city where they were
going on business for the week. However, I had to decline as they would not be
returning until the day after my flight was scheduled to leave Ghana.
The
king’s name is “His Royal Majesty King Odaifio Welentsi III” (according to his
business card which he gave me). He has three other titles (reading from the
bottom up in increasing order of importance):
·
President of the Nungua Traditional
Council – this is the group that was meeting to receive me that day. The
council is in charge of all tribal business within Nungua (a city of about
85,000 people).
·
Paramount Chief of Nungua Traditional Area
– This is a term that is recognized all across Ghana where there is a council
of chiefs that are consulted by the Ghanaian government on many issues. There
are six Paramount Chiefs in the Ga tribe, each governing a different geographic
area.
·
Overlord of the Ga’s – Odaifio is the “chief
of the chiefs”, i.e. when the Ga people need to speak with one voice, he is the
spokesperson for all the Ga chiefs. There are about 300,000 people in the Ga
tribe in Ghana.
Shirley
told me afterwards that she had never been in the palace before, except to meet
her father in the courtyard, and that likely her mother had never been there
before either. I had given Shirley my camera during all the above, but most of
what she took were videos instead of pictures, so I’m not sure how much I will
be able to post to my Facebook account
This
was certainly the highlight of my trip – as it would have been for anyone. As
one of few non-Ga people who have been so honored, it was truly a privilege.