Monday, June 29, 2015

Ghana Experience – Part 3 – Infrastructure

Ghana is a very “throw away” society, especially with plastics. Even the plastic water bottles say on them, “do not refill, just crush.” People toss away things like the plastic bottles, straws, plastic bags anywhere. They accumulate in the drainage ditches, in open areas, eventually wash down from the smaller to larger ditches and then out into the ocean. That’s why you are advised to not go swimming in the ocean. And the beaches, while otherwise beautiful with light surf every day, are just littered with plastic trash at the high watermark of the day.

Other things also end up in the drainage ditches. We drove past a young man just standing at the side of the road urinating into one. And there was a half-page ad in one of the papers asking people to refrain from defecating in public. When they started cleaning out some of the ditches in Accra after the recent flooding, they were pulling out old refrigerators, tires, and other assorted items.

A little about the roads here – they are atrocious! Full of potholes, people drive on the wrong side of the road to avoid them whenever possible. Apart from major roads, all others have speed humps every 100 meters or so, so you have to keep your speed down for those as well. Seeing cars with flat tires, or suspension being changed out is very common.

The aforementioned drainage ditches are concrete-lined, about 2’ across and 2-3’ deep. Nothing to stop you from accidentally driving into one – but everyone here is so used to them that I never saw a car stuck in one. If you have a business on that side of the road, you just make a “bridge” of wood or concrete to allow people to cross at the appropriate spot.

Of course the roads are shared by every manner of thing – not just cars, but buses (more on that below), motorcycles, bicycles, herds of sheep or goats, and in some places chickens or pigs that just roam free. Plus people cross the road any time or any place that they feel like. At one point I just leaned back in my seat in the car and took a wide view of what was happening in front of me. I did not see any accidents, but there were plenty that seemed to be waiting to happen!

Speaking of cars and buses, I need to comment on how people get around when many (most?) of them do not own vehicles. About half the cars on the road are either taxies or buses. You can tell it’s a taxi if the quarter panels are painted orange. Everything from ones even smaller than a Smart car up to a Toyota Accura are used as taxies. But then there are buses everywhere as well. All these buses are identifiable by having yellow stripes down the side. They are all larger than the average van in the US and seem to be made for this market. They all run fixed routes, but will stop anywhere you ask them to along that route. The driver puts his arm out the window and waggles his fingers to ask if you want him to stop and you do the same if you’re wanting to ride with him. They hold up to 35+ people (that’s 35 Ghanaians, I would never fit in their VERY tight seats). It all seems to work, but it’s certainly not like in the US. Some are fairly new vehicles, but others are very old and decrepit.

I need to finish here with a discussion of utilities. Ghana does not have enough generating power for the demand. So rolling blackouts are very common. The resort I was in had a vehicle-sized generator at the edge of the parking lot so the guests would have electricity during a blackout in the area. But that only worked up to a point. The first morning I was there the lights were off for several hours as they were working on the generator at the time of the blackout. Many other times during the week, there would be light flicker (and the a/c would cut off). That was the cutover from the outside power to the diesel generator or the reverse.


But no electricity also means no water as they need power to generate the water pressure. But in addition to the periodic power outages, I had no running water in the room for several hours (even though the lights were on at the time). I didn’t bother to question it at the front desk, it just seemed like a normal occurrence to everyone who was working there.

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