The
people of Ghana are very friendly. When you pass someone, even someone you have
never met before, you need to say “good morning,” “hello,” “good afternoon,” or
something else appropriate. Many of the staff at the Ramada Resort knew my name
by the end of my stay there, so I was often greeted with either “Hello, Mr.
Alan” or “Good morning, Mr. Russell.” Everyone from the people at the front
desk to the wait staff in the restaurant to the maintenance people were equally
friendly.
That
was also true everywhere else I went. The only non-Ghanaian people I saw apart
from other guests at the resort were a couple of tourists at the market in
Accra sitting in the same restaurant. I stood out, not only as a white person,
but as someone much taller than nearly everyone else I encountered, but I did
not feel any pressure from that – just as someone of interest when so few
people were in the places I was going. So I tried as best I could to greet
everyone just as they greeted me and felt quite comfortable doing so.
Of
course, since I was in the company of Shirley and other various members of her
family, that helped. Besides Shirley, I met her father, her mother, and her
brothers (two of them helped pick me up at the airport when I arrived and they
lived in the family house (it had two separate units so Shirley and her mother
lived on one side and her brothers on the other side). I also met a couple of “aunts”
(not sure if they were her mother’s sisters, or some other connection), and a
couple of her “cousins” (again not sure just how everyone was connected – the youngest
one, Esther, age 8, Shirley called her “niece,” but I think she was actually
the daughter of one of Shirley’s cousins, making her actually a “cousin, once
removed,” but “niece” is as good an expression as any.
While
everyone I came in contact with spoke English, it is not their primary
language. Rather, they all spoke a tribal language. I suspect most were
speaking Ga, as the area I was in is primarily a Ga area. But even the TV
programs were a mix of English, dubbed English (soap operas from a
Spanish-speaking country), or a tribal language (probably Twi, the primary
language of the Asanti people who comprise nearly half of all Ghanaians).
I
was not able to pick up any of the native language while I was there, so I just
listened to the flow of conversation around me.
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